Tuesday, April 14, 2020

VIETNAM JOURNALS 


Smiles and Beauty 
 
Part I
 
 
 

Hanoi
         Hoi An
         Hue
         Ha Long Bay
         Cat Ba Island
         Ninh Binh        
          

Vietnam is one of the most interesting places that I ever been to. A country filled with diverse people…young people who came from a hugely troubled history who have endured 1,000 years of Chinese rule.

However Vietnam has maintained and retained its strong individualistic characteristics mixed in with the regimented culture that has pervaded throughout time... I loved the easy going and friendly folk in the smaller towns, and business-like approach in the cities.
I have divided this Journal into 6 parts, as listed above…Each part will be interspersed with pictures.
 
 
 HANOI ...

 I arrived in Hanoi on 13 January 2020…

As you are aware I  am 5 hours older than you are mathematically//...I am 5 mathematical hours older than all of you back home.

The customs and immigration of the airport had much to do to make sure that all travellers had their visas stamped together with the required fees. The Hall was filled to capacity…some tourists were wearing masks, but these were primarily for the pollution that Hanoi experiences. It is quite ironic that the majority of Vietnamese were wearing masks for many years and a few weeks later the monster virus enveloped much of the planet.
I finally got my visa after standing in a queue for almost one hour…Another queue awaited me to get outside the airport.

Unfortunately the taxi driver who took me to the hotel could speak no English, but we got along fine…I managed to get him to tell me about his two children and his beautiful wife…this was done with lots of hand signals and  pidgin English.
The trip to ‘The Golden Sun Hotel’ took one hour from the airport using shortcuts and many backyard scenes and businesses still operating.

     Hanoi streets
The staff at the ‘Golden Sun Hotel’ were amazing…They spoke very good English and knew Hanoi really well.

Daisy, the concierge of the hotel, was so sweet and had a few ideas as to where I should go…Linda and I had been to Vietnam some years before so I knew my way around relatively well.

        The lamps hanging in the shaft
of the hotel - Golden Sun
outside my room

 

The next morning, after a breakfast of mangled eggs, fruit and a coffee that could only be described as awful, I set off for Lake Hoan Kiem,(Lake of the Returned Sword), a stretch of water that is positioned in the middle of the city…Trees are planted all along the cobbled walkways with their weepy branches almost touching the waters, middle aged people exercising their limbs and groups of orange robed monks sitting cross-legged and chanting in hallowed tones… The  Lake has an air of classic romance about it and scenic walks where no one bothers you…all basically in the centre of the city.
Limbering up for that swim across the lake
It was a grey morning, quiet other than the hooters of the scooters and cars, driving in the main street. The atmosphere was peaceful all around. 


The peace within

I wanted to walk instead of taking cabs so that I could prove to myself that I could do it…For a number of years I have had some respiratory issues that eventually ended up in me taking a daily dose of medication that resulted in me being able to function normally again.
I came across a group of 20 Vietnamese 5 year old’s, dressed up and looking so cute…Their hair done in different styles and pig-tails and bob cuts and always smiling. The variant in the number of colours that my camera picked was quite wondrous…They posed for a picture that their teacher shot. I was fortunate enough to have them pose for me too…


Watch out for the third one from the right
\The only way to take a picture of these kids is for you to be really silly in some way, funny and being yourself. That was candy floss.

Walking further into the centre of the city...weather overcast...misty or polluted...maniac drivers keeping their right thumb constantly on the hooter...pedestrians...just walk and do not hesitate, do not stop, just walk and say ‘Hallelujah’ when you get to the other side.
I came across another smaller group also having photografix-sessions…I took several pictures here…Everybody was so charming and inquisitive.

As I gazed across the lake breathing in the sweet air my eyes rested on a building standing on a small islet, called Tortoise/Turtle Tower which was built around 250 years ago. There were very large turtles in the lake, some weighing as much as 200 Kilograms and spanning 1.9 metres in length…The last turtle spotted was in 2016 was dead when they found it…Some believe that there is still one of these turtles left like the Loch Ness Monster’s fable.


250 year old Turtle Tower on Lake Hoan Kiem

Perch of the Morning Sunlight


Love in the Shadows
                  
                                          
Sitting on a park bench

ALDOS, a huge building, overlooking the edge of Hoan Kiem Lake…Aldos is a clothing emporium that occupies a large part of this building…Within this large building was my favourite haunt, ‘The Legend Pub’…They serve the Legend beer amongst many other brews that comes in 500ml glasses, unlike the stingy 330 ml that the rest of Vietnam sell.
A Legend beer and a Springroll (Goi cuon) on the 5th floor overlooking the lake and the traffic…

'The Legend Beer Pub' - The Watch Tower of Lake Hoan Kiem
I can watch the traffic from up there…a huge circle with various lanes leading from it... A maze and a monkey puzzle below…people walking freely across the circle. Cars, bicycles and motorbikes competing with people walking freely across the circle and vendors holding up bundles of Various balloons on sticks…what a sight to behold

Down below and from here
  I decided to get lost this afternoon...walking into the bowels of the city made sure that I did...I am sure it was Hang Duoc or was it Hang Loc? Never mind, I finally stumbled onto the right street...went into a side street and experienced the most amazing art emblazoned on the panels of the wall of a low bridge...perfect settings for people to pose against...I stood in the shadows and watched the ladies dressed in their finery posing against paintings of the various artists...flowers and more flowers and miniature orange trees, heavily laden with the fruit.

two buckets
A cyclist exiting the mural

Two young ladies showing off

The picture that rests within us
                                   
The Great Escape
Hanoi is relatively clean, with very little dog excrement on the pavements...eating canine creatures used to be the norm but during recent times the delicacy thereof has lessened considerably....(I saw a stand selling roasted dog meat...looked absolutely awful and reminded me of the oven roasted brown skinned pigs...disgusting...I was expecting the head of a Vietnamese peasant on a skewer next).

Whilst strolling along the narrow streets, a few ladies approached me with an over friendly hello...walk on...mind you, would I have said anything if something happened? (that would have been my deep dark secret)
\

                                                                       The rich and the famous

I came across, quite by chance a fine Indian restaurant called ‘Namaste’, where I had been several years prior with Ed, my brother in-law and life-long friend, his Thai wife Tuk and Linda)…It had moved from its previous position to a quieter section of the city…It was on the 1st floor of this very ordinary building and the dining area was large.
I was ushered to a small table where I could observe what was happening. The owner, Mr Gopi, was a little older now but still had the same characteristics and charm from all those years ago.

He came across to my table and we chatted for a few minutes until he moved to the next table, welcoming the new guests.
I had as a starter a Gobi with lots of chilli and heavenly pickles followed by my favourite dish, Prawn Vindaloo, a three star hot dish…not meant for the faint hearted…What a delicious experience.
 
Gobi and a sliver of lime and sambals
Auf wiedersehen, Hanoi

This was to be my last evening in Hanoi and I was quite happy to walk back to my hotel feeling tired but contented.

The next morning I was to leave Hanoi, jump into a plane and fly to da Nang, where I would wait for a bus and head for Hoi An. Now sitting in the bus terminal of da Nang where I have been waiting and waiting.

I was asked by many of my friends back home to spin a few stories and take some pictures with my mobile on a daily basis. It is a difficult task especially when I am used to a Nikon slung around my neck and now I must also use the mobile…the scenes go by so quickly.
The usual boring scenes from your seat, observing the mensch in all his splendour...the bus would take me directly to the hotel...see you later in the city of Hoi-An...

 
End of Part I ...